So we went to our favorite mountains for the umpteenth time. Ture goal was the climbing some summits of Prokletije and Komovi mountains, and one trad rock climb . However, the weather was not in our favor, so for 5 days we had to change our precise planned routes several times, so in the end, everything would become a trip without any plans, where we in the evening morning planned what to do next that morning …What would wise people say “The morning is wiser than evening”.
click images to enlarge / kliknite na fotografije za veće
The view from the valley Grbaja of the peaks of Albanian Prokletije. The valley Grbaja was the starting point of our climbing.
Our plan was to climb the top over southern ridge, through “Radnički” route, but since we didn’t find the „entrance“ , we took the normal hiking route.
Očnjak (2185 mnv.)
The view from Severni vrh on Očnjak.
South ridge of Očnjaka.
Just before the summit. Final part is going through an extremely steep terrain. Cables on exposed details are very old and it’s recommended not to use them. In the back is Grbaja, the valley from which we started.
Finally at the top. Signing in the book, stamping, sunbathing and departure. BTW, that was my third climbing on Očnjak.
Returning the same way…
Ropojana valley .
Besides the walking, we succeded to climb some rocks, ten minutes away from Alipašeni izvori.
Viper (Vipera ammodytes), Europe’s most toxic snake.
Severni Vrh (Northern Peak)
Karanfili are certainly the most dominant peak (means the group of peaks) of Montenegrin part of Prokletije. One of three peaks is Severni vrh (2460 amsl), which rises steeply between the valleys Grbaje and Ropojana. The very climbing is not easy, there are some parts under the snow and exposed, but certainly it is one of the most beautiful on Prokletije. During the climbing is possible to se see both valleys (Ropojana and Grbaja), and almost all the tops of Prokletije.
Thanks to the great weather, we reached the top very easy. Most of the time we took the normal hiking trail, except the ridge, where we were practised the simultaneous movement of roped party, as preparation for Alps.
“I told you that weather will be good.”
Severni vrh is few hundred metres above us… In this imposing rock there is a lot of (trad) climbing routes.
“Wait until I put on crampons”
We are moving next to the rock of Severni vrh to Krošnjina vrata – narrow passage that lead us to Ropojan part of mountain.
Steep part before Krošnjina vrata is always under the snow, so it is necessary to have appropriate equipment, as crampons and ice axe
The view on Zastan (1384m) , the place where is summer border post of former Yugoslav Army. While the army was there, this was fully functional facility, where hikers were regular guests. Today, when there is no army here, this facility is completely dilapidated. That is sad, because if there were smart people, this facility could be addapted into great mountain lodge, almost without any investments. The landscape around border post is unreal beautiful!
The view from the peak towards Maja Jezerce (2694 mnv.) – the highest peak of Prokletije and Dinaric Alps.
Plav and Plavsko lake.
After more than four hours of walking, here we are on the top.
Soon, I plan to visit this canyon again, but this time leisurely and with full photo equipment. Last time I didn’t have time to take photos I wanted.
The gate of wishes
We went in “lite” option, without backpacks, photo equipment or anything that could slow us down. In a strong pace, we were on the summit for less than an hour, which is, actually, very good ;)
The view from Štavna to Komovi. The left peak is Vasojevićki Kom (2461 m), and right is Kučki Kom (2487 m).
Turbo guys from the summit (L-R) : Brothers Marić, myself & brothers Pajić
*all of this happened in june 2010.
Text and photos: Dimitrije Ostojić